Kiri and Dan's South Island Adventure Time of Fun and Adventure

Hi everyone! This is going to be a super short post because I am supposed to be furiously writing this essay to get it done before Dan and I head out on our three week car trip around the South Island. Here is our itinerary:

Sunday, March 31: Mt. Cook Village
April 1-3: Queenstown (Adventure capital of the world. Eek!)
April 4-6: Te Anau
April 7-8: Stewart Island (Where the amazing smoked salmon is from!)
April 9-10: Wanaka
April 11: Franz Josef
April 12-13: Punakaiki
April 14-16: Motueka
April 17-18: Nelson
April 19-20: Picton
Sunday, April 21: Back in Christchurch

Quite the trip, right? If you're looking at a map, we are moving in a clockwise direction starting in Christchurch. We have no plans for any of the places except for where we're going to sleep at night - hostels all the way baby! Except for two glorious nights my parents got us at a real hotel on Stewart Island with our very own private bathroom. Traveling on the cheap makes me appreciate traveling not on the cheap. I'm not sure what the internet situation is going to be, but I'll try and post as much as I can to let you know Dan and I are still alive and well. Yay for vacation! SCHOOLS OUT FOR SUMMER! Or maybe for the Easter holiday. SCHOOL'S OUT FOREVER! Or maybe just three weeks, but that's cool too. Have a great weekend!

A Beautiful Day and other adventures

I want to start this blog post with a thank you. Thank you so much to all the people who read my blog, and an extra thank you to those who then post or email me telling me they think I’m adventurous/crazy/tan/like my water bottle. It really, really, really gives me happy warm feelings and I appreciate the time you put into writing to me. Basically, it makes my week, so I’d appreciate it if you’d  keep it coming. Thanks.

I’m going to take this post backward in time because today (Saturday March 23) was one of those days I want to capture and keep in a bottle for times when I’m sad. I’d open up the top and let a little of the glow out and I’d brighten right up.  Since those kinds of days don’t come around too often, I want to share it immediately. First, it started when I woke up, pulled back the curtains and saw that it was a sunny day after a week of clouds here in Christchurch. The breeze lightly brushed my face, letting me know the day was going to be delightfully warm. Then, I lay back in bed, poured my heart out to my cousin in an email. After I finished being emotional and jaded, I shook my entire body and jumped up. The farmers market was calling! Over the weeks, I’ve gotten to know the market a little better and find it less overwhelming, so I can now take the stalls systematically instead of running all over the place in uncontrollable bliss. Until this week, I chose to eat whatever smelled the strongest or had the best sign. This week I’ll have a Middle Eastern pita! That week I’ll eat grilled muscles wrapped in bacon! Next week it’s bratwurst with mustard, tomato sauce (Kiwis decided ketchup was a useless term), and sauerkraut! The lady with the scones smiled at me so I guess it’s a chili pesto parmesan scone this morning! I floated around, agonizing over which stall to buy from for my market meal, but this week I had a plan: pain au chocolat from the Bellbird Bakery. Walking past their table every week I'd peer into the baskets and they always had the best looking croissants I’ve seen anywhere in Christchurch. I walked to the farmers market with purpose because I knew Today was the Day. 

The farmers market is held at the Riccarton Bush, a park approximately 1.3 miles from the University of Canterbury. I always walk the back roads in more suburban parts of the city because I love to see the neat gardens spread around most houses’ front steps. Clearly the English influence runs deep. A messy garden (my favorite kind) gets dirty looks from the neighbors, and you can't call yourself a New Zealander if you have no garden at all.

I know the only garden-ish thing in this picture are the decorative hedges on the left, but look how peaceful it is! Such a nice break from the busy road I live on.

Every week when I arrive at the farmers market, I still do a dry run past the stalls before I buy anything just in case something new and exciting has cropped up that I need to consider (100% of the time there is something new and exciting. See grilled muscles wrapped in bacon, an oyster pie, cumin hummus). After I buy everything I’m planning on bringing back to the flat (I moved out of the freshman dorm and into UC flats if I didn’t mention that before), I carefully choose a treat to eat in the sunshine by the river while I’m at the park. As I mentioned, today I was sure the pain au chocolat would be my treat. I went to the Bellbird Bakery stall and bought the flaky goodness with so much enthusiasm the girls behind the table were clearly uncomfortable. Cradling my pastry, I walked towards my favorite patch of grass to sit and devour the thing I had dreamed about for a week until a sign stopped me dead. It read “Pulled pork on homemade ciabatta with seasonal sesame slaw.” Wow.  If a charging bull could read, I bet that sign would stop a charging bull. In a trance of wonder I flew to the stall placed my order for one sandwich and stood back to wait. It took me about 30 seconds to realize the very kind and excited chef was talking to me. “Are you from the States?” Cough, “Ahem, ARE YOU FROM THE STATES.”

“Oh wow, sorry, me. Yes, I’m from the States.”

“Where are you from?”

“Boston-”

“Oh great! Boston is beautiful! I once went to New York, and then we drove up to Boston! I loved it! Nice change of pace from New York!” It is absolutely shocking to me that New Zealanders know Boston, but they always do. If people ask me where I’m from and I say the US, they look at me like, “duh, I know that. Nice accent.” Anyway, I went on to tell the chef that pulled pork is one of my favorite foods and her response made me even happier to be buying it from her. She said, “Oh really? That’s great! I am just so happy to be bringing it to everyone! I just love that I can bring it to you!” I love that she loves being extremely busy with no break since nine in the morning because she is sharing her food. And it was fantastically zinging with lots of citrus in the slaw and a little bit of heat in the tender pork. Definitely yum, as the Kiwis say.

Here’s a picture of all my purchases. Multigrain bread, amazing Royal Gala apples picked that morning and oh so sweet, The Sandwich, bagels for Dan because he loved them and had to buy that awful store brand kind because no bakery near us makes them, cumin hummus, pain au chocolat, peppers.

With happiness in my belly, I walked back to campus to meet Sarina and Dan because we were headed out to the beach! Sumner Beach is about a half hour drive away from UC so I hadn't gone yet. Finally on this gorgeous day we made the trek and I am so glad we did.

This photo was taken out of the window on the drive. Not too bad huh?

These shipping containers line the road to stop rocks from the cliff falling into the road.

By this point in my life, I should probably remember how much I love the ocean. Months had passed since I had quality time with the ocean. As soon as we stepped onto the beach, I ran to the water on very fine, soft sand, and stood in the surf looking out at the horizon. As waves pushed against my shins and the sun burned my nose, my soul healed. City living wears away at it bit by bit and I don’t realize it until I leave the busy streets and zooming cars. As soon as I’m out of the chaos, my shoulders relax and insecurities that build up in my brain are momentarily shaken out. It feels wonderful. Today I was reminded of the calming affect of the ocean, and why both of my favorite places in the world center on the sea.

I love the ocean.

Leg face

Super cool plant. Anyone know what it is?

Now I will quickly go through the other adventures I’ve had in the past week. Don’t worry, there will be more pictures and less words.

Last Sunday, Dan and I headed out to Governor’s Bay, about a 20 minute drive from UC, to a fancy café called She Chocolat. They had a stand at the farmers market the day before and everything they had was so pretty I wanted to make a pilgrimage to their actual restaurant.

Chili hot chocolate

Frozen tiramisu. At the bottom of the picture there is a little cup with whipped cream in it. Yeah, that cup was made of chocolate. I felt like I was in Willy Wonka’s factory.

Intricate Easter display. The massive Easter eggs She Chocolat displayed around the cafe were beautiful with swirling blue and green dyed chocolate and small golden stars.

Last Saturday, Dan, Lauren and I went to rugby game. Crusaders, Christchurch’s team, KILLED the Bulls, a team from South Africa. The best part was that the Crusaders had lost two out of two games this season and the Bulls had won three out of three. So it was an especially sweet win for Christchurch. I want to do a special shout out here to Joe Karasch who patiently explained the rules of rugby to me using pool balls. I forgot pretty much everything except for scrum, line out (embarrassing if that’s not what it’s called) and that a score is called a try. I took pictures of everything I recognized, and everything else too.

Yay RUGBY! Well some of us are excited.

One of the best doughnut holes I’ve ever had. Cinnamon sugar covered fried bits of dough. I’m drooling right now. I really need a tissue.

At the beginning of the game, men dressed as crusaders gallop horses around the stadium. They stop on each side and raise their swords.

I whip my hair back 'n forth, I whip my hair back 'n forth! Crusader cheerleaders, the Maidens, came out at the beginning too. They had blond hair and about three dance moves.

Every time the Crusaders scored, huge columns of flame jetted into the air. We were sitting about 15 rows back from the fire and I could still feel its heat. Crusaders are red, the Bulls are blue.

Blurry scrum. You can see the large sword and castle gates in the far right corner of the field. The horses galloped through the gates, obviously. Also I don’t know if you can tell, but the refs are the ones in bright pink.

Blurry line out. Look how high those guys are lifted into the air! They are so big! The great thing about such a small stadium was that even though we had the cheapest tickets, our view was still really good.

Last Friday night I went to my first wine club tasting, 8 Red Wines from Around the World. There was a guy sitting at my table who is blind and has been making wine for 30 years. I didn’t get to talk to him too much, but I really want to hear his story. Throughout the night we actually tasted ten wines, which felt like a lot. Luckily I was prepared and limited myself to only a couple sips of each, but some of my fellow club members were rather rosy cheeked by the time we left. My favorite wine of the night was a Malbec, but in a room of about 45 people, I was alone in that opinion. The majority of people chose the port at the end as their favorite, but I thought it tasted like cough syrup. Moral of the night, Kiri knows nothing about wine.  I still had a ton of fun and got to spend some time with a different group of people. At the end of the night, they raffle off all the half drunk bottles left over from the tasting, and I won the last bottle! It is a Côtes du Rhône that has about two glasses left. I’m very excited about this because it is the first lottery I’ve ever “won.” Wait no, that I’ve ever won, no quotations marks, I’m calling this a solid win.

That was a much longer post than I intended. Maybe it can be used as a study/work break? Or use it an excuse to read something that’s not your email/a textbook/things about the new pope.  Basically, I hope this is used as a procrastination tool. Happy Weekend!

Epic Post on the Banks Peninsula Track

'Twas the Walk of the Banks Peninsula Track 

‘Twas the night before leaving, when all through the flat

I ran around packing, I need this! I need that!

My backpack was stuffed and stood by the door

It couldn’t have possibly fit anymore.

Next stop Akaroa! the bus driver said

While visions of hiking danced in my head

And me in my boots, and I in my pack

I felt ready for the Banks Peninsula Track.

I was dropped at Onuku Tramper Hut where there arose such a clatter,

I sprang through the gate to see what was the matter.

Away to the hut I flew like a flash

Tore open the door and drew back the sash.

Where I came upon fellow hikers whooping with glee

At the picturesque hut they were sharing with me

When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,

The beautiful cabin, making their whooping clear.

I made me some pasta with red sauce and cheese

Then off to bed quick as you please

Tomorrow was a climb to the top of the hill! To the top of the stick!

Dash away! Dash away! Dash away quick!

When I awoke the next morning I glanced at the sky,

Clouds were gathering where I was planning to fly

But with my raincoat in one hand and a bag on my back

Rain wouldn’t dampen my time on the track.

Well it blustered all day whilst I walked through the jungle

Over slippery rocks my ankles did bungle.

To pass the time without views I started this poem

Thinking at least if no pictures, I’ll have something to show ‘em.

Finally, though, I reached my next hut

Where what did I find, but wine poured and cheese cut

There were six older Kiwis, one was named Kyle,

They had booze and food, clearly travelling in style.

Their eyes how they twinkled! Their dimples how merry!

Their cheeks were like roses, their noses like cherries!

Their droll little mouths were drawn up a bow,

But there were no beards, and there was no snow.

They offered me to join in their happy hour

Where our cheeks became redder and no one was sour

They teased Kyle about Auckland where the JAFAs live

But he didn’t mind, he had many laughs to give.

Monday morning I left them, I needed to get back to town,

Catch my bus back to Christchurch, so I had to get down

From the tips of the hills that made up the Banks

It was sunny that morning and I gave many thanks.

It was a day of fast hiking and beautiful views

Lots of ups and down, maybe more than I’d choose

At times I wanted to lay a finger aside my nose

So easy as an elevator up the steep tails I rose.

I made it back to Akaroa in plenty of time

And with ice cream in one hand, I considered my climb

It was gorgeous and lonely and freeing and scrappy

My first solo adventure made me feel so happy.

The shuttle arrived and gave a loud whistle

And away we flew like the down of a thistle.

But I thought to myself ere we drove out of sight,

“Thank you, dear Banks Track, great days and cozy nights!”

There you have it, my poem from the Track. It is definitely not up to the caliber of my aunt Laura who both loves hiking and is extremely good molding well-known poems to her own uses (“It doesn’t scan! It doesn’t scan!). But what can I say, I made this up as I walked for a little entertainment because I fairly quickly got through thinking my big amazing life altering thoughts that I’d planned on having on this trip. Although I may not have found out the meaning of the universe on the Banks Peninsula Track, it was still an excellent experience for me to have. Since I have never hiked alone before, I appreciated the very well marked trails and the well stocked, cozy huts I stayed in. Usually, they allow four two-day hikers and twelve four-day hikers to leave per day (the two-day and four-day go the same distance, just in different amounts of time). Somehow, I decided to so this on a slow weekend so I was the only two-day hiker, meaning I had all the two-day huts to myself! No sharing for me! Ha. Ha. So this will be a post very full of pictures, and many embarrassing ones because having pictures of only landscape is BORING. Thus, I have some attempts at taking pictures of myself with the landscape.

This was my view out of the bus window as we came into Akaroa. It took us a while to get down the road because it was all hairpin turns. Kind of like the one from Santiago up to the ski mountains for those of you who know that scary road.

Akaroa Harbor out of a window from a cafe where I enjoyed a cookie before setting out on the Banks Track.

Signs like this make me feel special that I am a Registered Track Walker and it is ONLY for me. This was the first white sign of many I would see along the Track.

The Banks Peninsula Track shuttle picked me and other hikers up from the old post office in Akaroa at 5:45, dropping us here. Yup, this is a hut used for "camping" and "roughing it" in the great outdoors. I think I'm perfecting the talent of doing difficult things easily.

Throughout the whole trip, I kept thinking to myself, how did I get here? What steps brought me to such a gorgeous spot?

This is what you see when you walked into the hut. Kitchen on the right, doors to bunk rooms ahead and on the left. And a refrigerator for your convenience. "For your convenience" was definitely a theme of the trip. There were fridges, blanket, mid-trail bathrooms, candle, hot showers, all for your convenience.

I took the bottom bunk. No fighting for beds with no one else in the cabin.

First attempt at a selfie. You can see the reflection of the camera in my sunglasses.

Sunset over the hills and the harbor.

Dinner my first night. Lit the candle for you, pops.

Good Morning! I got up at seven to be out of there around eight to have plenty of time for my hiking.

I was headed up into that fog.

The annoying thing about pictures is that you can't tell how steep the trail was and so the "Oh my gosh, you're so strong/wonderful/a hero for getting up that vertical trail!"comments can't happen. Oh well, you'll just have to trust me, it was freakin' STEEP.

I turned around as I climbed up the first hill took this picture of Robinson's Bay. And the weather I was getting into. 

Hello fog. 

At the top of the first steep part, where I learned I was not, in fact, in shape.

Paradise looks like...

Sheep!

On the first night, we were given a booklet outlining our trail and various points of interest that were explained in another part of the booklet. It was extremely helpful and informative. My got pretty much destroyed on my first day walking. But I point out where I am on the map so you get some idea where I am on the trail, and sometimes where a view is supposed to be.

Like here on the Ridge Walk. It seemed like there should be an amazing view here, so I took a picture of the spot.

I walked a little farther to the point where it actually said "VIEW", so I took a picture of that view too.

I imagine there is water somewhere out there. And maybe a dragon.

B.P. Track, that's me!

I climbed over many fences during the walk because the Banks Peninsula Track is a privately owned by several families in the area, so I was walking across their reserves and their private farm land. This picture shows another "for your convenience" example. There were always helpful steps and a pole to hang onto to get over the fence.

Creepy dead tree

You can't see it in the picture, but my hair is soaked from the cloud I walked around in all morning that had attached itself to the top of the trail.

Highest point of the trail! Place with the best views!

Annnddd here's the view. I know it sounds like I'm complaining a lot about the fog, but I actually like it. I find it oddly comforting because it reminds me of Rockport, ME (one of my two favorite places in the world) and all the fog on the harbor. Not only does it obstruct views, but it also muffles sound, which gave me a strong impression of being totally alone in my own world on the trail.

Halfway to my lunch spot! If I was doing the Track in four days, Flea Bay would be the next place I would stop for the night.

For about 1km I walked down this road making sure not to miss the turn off at Mortlock's Mistake. I realized hiking alone I was a much more alert, cautious hiker because if I wasn't carefully looking for the sign, no one else was there to catch my mistake. I also was very aware that if I hurt myself, it would be a very long wait before I got some help. This was the first time I've ever really considered these things when hiking because I've only ever trekked with a large group where I was definitely a follower.

The Helps family is one of the families that maintains the Track

Here is where I am on the track. In the lower right of the map, there is a small back house, and that was the Flea Bay hut where I was going to have my lunch break.

I walked over many small bridges like this one and they always had wire fencing in the wood to prevent slipping, as always for your convenience

I was walking along the trail in the open where sparse trees dotted the hills, then suddenly BOOM! I was in a jungle, where it promptly started pissing rain and continued for the rest of the day.

BIG TREE. It would have taken about nine of me to reach all the way around the base.

Waterfalls were everywhere.

This is the most southern Nikau Palm!

I talked to the farmer who owns this land and I told him I really liked his pretty black sheep. He growled back that they were his wife's special pets and if it were his choice grumble grumble grumble.

Streams like this were also everywhere. Thus, lots of bridges.

The reason they think it's called Flea Bay is because it's so remote, even a flea could get lost here.

Flea Bay

"Dolphin Watch" I unfortunately saw no dolphins.

The water is the same color as in the Caribbean.

Some friends I met on the trail.

This island used to be connected to the mainland, but the ocean slowly eroded the rock. Water and time can mold anything.

My trail zig zagging up the hillside

Snack time! and fun with the self timer!

Odd shack built into the rock. One wall of the shack is literally the rock. In the upper left above the hut you can see the loo.

Children, look away! Me using the loo.

Had to because look at the view!

Aaannnddd another loo on the side of the trail.

Yup, you get to see it again. Me in the loo.

Because it was a loo with a view.

Intense preditor resistant fence that wrapped around the nesting area for the endangered sooty shearwater/titi/mutton bird colony. It wraps all the way down to the very edge of the cliffs, which made me wonder how they possibly put it up.

This is the coastline I along which I walked.

Almost at the end of my walk for the day.

Stoney Bay

Penguin box. These small boxes where everywhere along the Track, but I have no idea how the penguins actually fit into them.

Small path, steep drop, beautiful swimming beach.

When I first saw this bush I thought it had flowers on it, but then I realized it was just leaves on the tips of the branches that turned fiery red. They almost glowed.

This is the part in the Disney movie where you see the sunny path and the dark, creepy, evil tree path and you yell, "The sunny path! Take the sunny path!" But they never listen and go through the scary forest anyway.

Some more friends I made on the trail.

Stoney Bay from the beach. The water here is about the temperature of Martha's Vineyard in the summer. So not bitingly cold, but not really a soaking temp either.

Stoney Bay two-day walkers hut. Also the site of one of my happiest happy hours I ever been to.

Inside my hut, wood stove, bunks, scary stove you had to light with a match. The stove sometimes didn't light with the match but the gas would be on and I just knew the next attempt would create a minor poof of flame up my arm. It never hurt, but I jumped a mile every time.

This hut had no electricity like the last one, so that's why I'm cooking dinner looking like a champion in my head lamp. The reason I had sausages was because there was a mini "shop" where sausages, steak, yogurt, veggies, cheese, beer, wine, fruit was all available. Much of it was from the farm where we were staying.

Another candle light dinner, but this was was out of necessity. 

Monday morning, my knee was killing me and my hips were bruised, and I was all grumpy, but then I reminded myself 1. I'm in NZ, 2. I'm experiencing the best possible first solo camping adventure, 3. It was freaking beautiful, even when raining, 4. You had sausages last night. BUCK UP.

And I was rewarded.

The I couldn't get the blowhole blowing on camera, but I liked the white foam against the black rock.

This grass that was everywhere on the hills. It reminded me of blond hair.

OH MY GOD THAT ROCK WALL IS SO COOL. Water is the best carver.

Bright red cliffs were everywhere. It's red because of minerals in the ash from the volcano that the Banks Peninsula used to be.

This is just crazy, read the sign.

To keep my mind off my knee, I had to put in my iPod, but sometimes epic songs would play and I thought it was funny. Here, the Circle of Life came on.

Theme of the Track: Follow the white markers and you'll be ok.

Wiiinnnddyyyy

When settlers, both Maori and European (British and French), first came to the Banks Peninsula, they cleared most of the forest with fires and the land is still recovering. This picture shows a good contrast of the brown versus the green.

Otanerito Bay

I heard barking behind me as I walked down to this farm. So I looked around and a herd of sheep were running right at me. I scooted out of the way and enjoyed watching the dogs and farmer easily round up all the sheep.

As I walked past them, the ALL turned and stared at me. It's a very odd feeling having about 80 sheep watch you.

Look! Sunny!

The walk through this reserve was mostly in the forest, which was interesting because I looked around me and realized I didn't recognize most of the trees or bushes. It was extremely steep, and for those of you who have been there, it was like climbing the green carpeted stairs in my grandma's Rockport house for about two hours. Good for the glutes.

On the Hinewai Reserve where I was much of Monday it is possible to drink water right out of the streams. Of course I had to try it because it's so rare.

Yeah made it to the top! I am sweat-ay!

Look! Akaroa Harbor

Some kind ladies decided I needed a full picture of myself for my mother. As you can see, I'm rocking the all black ninja look.

Last trail back to the beginning.

Last lunch. I like Peanut butter, you like peanut butter, chocolate peanut butter too.

The trail ended, but still had to get back to the center of Akaroa to catch my bus back to Christchurch, so the road and I spent some quality time together. But look at this view, not a bad place to walk, even if it was on a road.

When I got back to Christchurch I was completely exhausted and I still had another bus ride back to the University, so I treated myself to a nice dinner.

Fancy pants nutella cheesecake dessert. I was so happy.

And so ends the adventure on the Banks Peninsula Track. It was a wonderful experience for me to hike, eat, and sleep all by myself. I wish I had some huge epiphany to share with you but I don't. I really enjoyed the time to recharge and realize that I can be completely independent. Also I learned that hiking alone is great because I could stop every five seconds to take pictures, sing very loudly and badly, make all the decisions, and not feel bad about any of it. That said, when I got to particularly spectacular views, or ate a peanut butter and banana sandwich that tasted so good because I was on the trail, I wished I had someone who was there to exclaim at our luck to be enjoying it all. So don't worry, you will still be invited along on my adventures (read: to Antigua and beyond) because I'd love to share  them with you.